WSR Wine Blog

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WSR – January – Brunello di Montalcino and Rosso – David

1. Az Agr. Baccinetti “La Saporoia” K&L Wine Merchants, Hollywood $34.98

 92 points – James Suckling: “A beautiful perfume and sweetness to this wine with plum, dark cherry and flowers. Full and very silky tannins with berry and blackberry tart flavors. Enticing and friendly. Try it in 2013.”

 K&L: “Baccinetti is on Montalcino’s south fact, not far from Castel Sant’Angelo and next to Lisini.  The nose is wild, full of gamey aromatics coupled with intense Marasca cherries and cranberries – it just gushes from the glass.  On the palate the wine has a dense sweetness to it; it lush, but shows focus and balance while still giving the feel of weight and size in the mouth.  The finish is very spicy, full of Middle Eastern intrigue, exotic and enticing.  It is incredibly rich.  Its dense testier, together with the spicy fruit, make for a long and complexity-filled finish.

 2.  Baccinetti “La Saporoia 2009 Rosso de Montalcino K&L Wine Merchants, Hollywood $16.99

 K&L:  Affectionately named “Cat-zilla” by our staff because of its Cat adorned unique label this is the newest addition to our direct imports from Montalcino. From vineyards adjacent to Lisini on the south face of Montalcino this wine is a thrilla! Lush, rich texture balanced with spice, complexity and a long finish. This tiny winery was brought to our attention by a couple of loyal K&L customers (Mark & Lori thank you) and is just an awesome drink right now at an unbelievable price. You’ll love the richness, be cativated by the complexity and be back buying more!

 3.  Canalicchio Di Sopra  Hi-Time Cellars, Costa Mesa $54.98 “In 1962 Primo Pacenti, a lover of the land with a knowledge of its products, founded Azienda Agricola Canalicchio di Sopra. Situated in the northern side of theMunicipality ofMontalcino and in the middle of the tourist itinerary of Val d’Orcia, the farm extends for about 60 ha, 15 of which are cultivated with vines and 2 with olive groves.

Three generations live here side by side with the common aim of producing quality wines: the generation of the grandfather, Primo Pacenti, who founded the farm and managed it until the 1990’s, as well as participating actively in the social life of the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino; that of the father, Pier Luigi Ripaccioli, who with the grandfather has undertaken to increase the quality by proposing careful and meticulous work; that of the grandchildren, Simonetta, Marco and Francesco who joined the management in 2001, bringing with them new ideas and new technologies always in respect of ancient methods and customs.

The vines grow in two of the zones with the highest vine growing and wine making vocations in Montalcino: Canalicchio di Sopra and Le Gode di Montosoli. The different exposure and the geological differences of the soils produce different Sangiovese grapes where balance and power compensate one another in the wine cellar through the patient work which always seeks the best blend of tradition and innovation.

The Wine Advocate:  “The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino comes across as tightly wound and inward at this stage. With time in the glass the wine’s inner perfume gradually comes to life, even if this remains a reticent Brunello within the context of the vintage. Still, it is impossible not to admire the inner sweetness of the fruit and the impeccable polish of the tannins. All this needs is time, maybe a little more than usual in this vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. ” 94 Points

4.  Mastro Janni  14.5% Hi-Time Cellars,Costa Mesa $46.98

From Jim Suckling: Fascinating aromas of strawberry tart, dried fruits and tobacco box. Full body, with tobacco and berry character. Flavorful finish. I like the sweet, silky texture. This is racy and very refined. Traditional in style. Needs three to four years of bottle age.

Antonio Galloni writes: The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino is a wonderfully plush, warm Brunello loaded with radiant fruit. Flowers, licorice and leather develop in the glass, adding dimension to this opulent, expressive wine. The sheer depth of the fruit and the open, sweet bouquet completely cover the tannins, making this one of the most approachable wines of the vintage. This remains a rich, full-bodied Brunello capable of delivering plenty of enjoyment now and over the next handful of years at a minimum.

5.  Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona “Pianrosso”  Hi-Time Cellars, Costa Mesa $53.98

 K&L: “Ciacci’s location in southern Montalcino gives it lots of ripeness to work with, and in Paolo Bianchini’s hands it shines. This vintage’s Pianrosso is the best I can remember in years: the fruit is classically Ciacci-flashy and ebullient, however very complex this year.  There’s lots of plum and cherry, but this vintage has more spice, earth and verve.  The wine has focus, length and, while it shows real palate plushness, it has the structure to age as well.  The wine finishes with a balanced and bold replay of the fabulous fruit character it displays in the nose.” 93 pts.

6.  La Fortuna 2009 Rosso de Montalcino  K&L Wine Merchants, Hollywood $19.99

90 points Wine Spectator: “Juicy and appealing for its black cherry, raspberry, licorice and sweet spice flavors, this red is buoyed by its bright acidity. Long, rich finish. Drink now through 2013. 1,100 cases made.” (09/11)

 7.  La Poderina  Hi-Time Cellars, Costa Mesa $45.98

 95 points James Suckling: “Blueberries, flowers and raspberries. Love the nose, like so many others. Full body, with fine tannins and a silky textured finish. So much going on here. Class. Best after 2013.”

 92 points Wine Enthusiast:  “La Poderina’s Brunello shows impressive balance between its bright fruit and sassy spice components. On the close, the wine exhibits a tight, firm and penetrating feel that is carried forth by acidity and the natural firmness of the tannins.” (04/11)

 90 points Stephen Tanzer: “Good full red. Withdrawn but pure aromas of cherry and iron. Juicy red fruit and mineral flavors are a bit sullen today but show good depth. Began serious and savory but time in the glass brought more texture and sweetness. Finishes with ripe tannins and very good length.” (Jul/Aug 11)

 8.  Lisini 2009 Rosso de Montalcino Hi-Time Cellars, Costa Mesa $26.98

 Lisini’s 2009 Rosso di Montalcino is all class and elegance. A floral, open bouquet leads to layers of bright, high-toned fruit in this understated, feminine Rosso. This is a terrific showing from one of Montalcino’s historic names. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2019.

 9.  Poggio Antico 13.5% Alc Hi-Time Cellars, Costa Mesa $63.98

 95 points James Suckling: “Fascinating aromas of blackberries, flowers, dark chocolate and nuts follow through to a full body, with chewy tannins and a long, intense aftertaste. Bright acidity. This is structured and held back. Massive wine. Most structured ever from here. Give it four to five years of bottle age before opening. Impressive power. (1/15/11)”

95 points Stephen Tanzer (International Wine Cellar): “Bright, dark red. Knockout perfume of black cherry, black raspberry, minerals, violet, rose petal and a whiff of dark chocolate. Silky on entry, then almost painfully intense in the middle, with terrific backbone and acidity to the classy fruit, mineral and dark chocolate flavors. This boasts fruit of steel, and great clarity. Finishes with a compelling savory quality, a spine of noble tannins and outstanding subtle persistence. (Jul/Aug 2011)”

93 points Antonio Galloni (Wine Advocate): “[$80 list] The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino is a very pretty, elegant wine. Fine, silky tannins frame a core of crushed berries, flowers, licorice and new leather in this mid-weight, gracious Brunello. The wine’s inner sweetness emerges over time, adding harmony and class. This is a super-elegant, refined Brunello from Poggio Antico. The estate gave the Brunello three years in Slavonian oak, yet the wine remains fresh and vibrant. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026. (May 2011)”

93 points John Gilman (View From the Cellar): in big, Slavonian oak botti ranging from one to twelve years of age. The first class bouquet jumps from the glass in a beautiful mélange of cherries, woodsmoke, orange peel, a touch of gamebird, lovely soil tones and a topnote of Tuscan herbs. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and precise, with a lovely dollop of old school Brunello elegance, fine mid-palate depth, ripe tannins and excellent focus and grip on the very long, refined and chewy finish. A classic in the making and one of the best 2006 Brunellos I have had the pleasure to taste. 2016-2050. (May/Jun 2011)”

93 points Wine Enthusiast: ” Poggio Antico consistently delivers standout Brunello, and this expression from the 2006 vintage is no exception. The wine is plush and rich with deliciously soft succulence. In the background, it delivers loads of vanilla, sweet spice, clove and black cherry. (Apr 2011)”

 “Poggio Antico has the good fortune, along with Gianfranco Soldera, to have their vineayrds at the highest elevations in Brunello di Montalcino, and this has certainly benefitted them in the hot 2006 vintage. The ’06 Poggio Antico is an absolute classic in the making, coming in at 13.5 percent alcohol and having been raised entirely.”

10.  Uccelliera (A Mark deGrazia Import) 15% Hi-Time Cellars,Costa Mesa $63.98

 94 points Wine Enthusiast: “A stellar performer year after year, Uccelliera’s confident delivery is characterized by intensity, purity and personality. This Montalcino favorite also delivers plush softness with thick texture and a focused point of bright acidity.” (4/1/2011)

 93 points Wine Spectator: “Starts out supple, with licorice, dried cherry and plum flavors, picking up a touch of herbs as this glides to a lingering conclusion. Elegant and almost racy, with grip and character. Best from 2013 through 2025.” (06/11)

 91 points Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 11: “Good deep red. Black fruits, licorice, black pepper, spices, underbrush and minerals on the nose. Dense and sweet but also nicely structured, offering good energy for such a creamy wine. A bit unwieldy today owing to its high alcohol, but the wine’s powerful tannins are nicely supported by ripe, deep fruit. Give this at least four or five years to come into harmony.”


January 13, 2012 Posted by | Group Tasting Notes, Italian, Red Wines | 1 Comment